The Harness
A harness is comprised of many different parts, that are all there to do a job.
1. Saddle
2. Terrets
3. Lines(Reins)
4. Waterhook
5. Crupper Strap
6. Shafts
7. Girth
8. Tug
9. Wrap Straps
10. Shaft Stop(brass fitting on cart)
11. Breastcollar
12. Singletree
13.Neckstrap
14. Traces
15. Breastcollar Buckles
16.Shaft Tips
17. Breeching
18.Holdback Straps
19.Loinstrap
20.Crupper Strap
21.Footman Loops(brass fitting on the cart)
22. Dock
The
vehicle attaches to the back saddle(1) which is the main component of
the harness. The saddle is a wide, stiff strap of leather with a “tree”
inside, padded underneath that sits over the horses back. The saddle is
fitted with terrets(2) on either side, which is where the lines(3) run
through. In the center is the waterhook(4) which is used as an anchor
for a check rein.(note the horse in diagram 3 is not wearing a
checkrein) Directly behind that is where the crupper strap(5) attaches.
The vehicle is steered when the horse pushes either right or left into
the saddle. When pulling a two wheeled vehicle the horse is also
supporting the front end of the vehicle, for the comfort of the horse
the saddle needs to be wide enough to evenly distribute this weight. A
larger animal/vehicle requires a wider saddle. A slightly narrower
saddle is preferred in the breed ring and is also better for ventilation
of the back. A good compromise needs to be met between good
distribution of force, cooling of the horse and good looks. A “fine”
harness would be look great for a shorter time in the breed ring, while a
somewhat wider saddle for cross country driving more appropriate. When
pulling a four wheel vehicle the horse is only bearing the weight of the
shafts(6) and the saddle can be narrower without harm.
The saddle
is held on by the girth(7). The girth should be plain leather so that
it can get a bit slippery when the horse sweats to prevent chafing. The
saddle needs to grip, girth needs to be slightly slippery.
When
hitching to a single horse vehicle there are two types of shaft tugs
used. These are the English or open tug and the French tug. This harness
shows an English tug(8). English tugs are used with wrap straps(9) that
are wound around the shafts of the cart. This pulls the shafts in and
down. Generally taking the strap behind the shaft and back of the tug,
up over the shaft, and then crossing the front of the tug, under the
shaft to the front of the tug, back over the shaft and down to the
buckle. The shaft stop(10) on the cart is sitting right behind the tug.
Do up one side first and then the other.
The girth should be snug but
not tight. French tugs have billet straps that hold down the shafts and
attach to a shaft girth. The French tug is pushed right close to the
front of the shaft stop and is tightened and buckled into the billet on
each side. A third type of tug called a “Tilbury” similar to French
tugs, are used on four wheel vehicles. The level of the shafts is
adjusted by moving the tug up or down on its billet attached to the
saddle. Straight shafts should be level or tip slight up following the
line of the breast collar(11).
The horse gets the vehicle in
motion with either a neck collar or breastcollar. The breastcollar is
the most common type used; it is a wide strap of leather that encircles
the chest of the horse. Many breast collars have buckles at their ends
where the traces attach for ease of adjustment. A breast collar creates a
sawing motion, therefore it is important that it attaches freely to the
singletree(12) on the cart and not be restricted in anyway. The neck
strap(13) controls the height of the breast collar or the “point of
draught”. The point of draught in the vertical center point of the
draught force. This is important; it needs to be low enough to not
interfere with the windpipe but not below the point of the shoulder
where it interferes with the action of the front limbs. Many horses
showing in the breed ring wear martingales, these attach to the center
of the girth at the front, come up between the front legs where the
lines run through them. It is important to always have rein stops on
your lines when using a martingale so that your buckle doesn’t get
caught inside the ring of the martingale causing an unpleasant result. A
false martingale is also used outside of the show ring- it can be
helpful in minimizing the side to side movement of the breast collar or
forward separation that occurs when stopping. (Note the horse in diagram
3 is not wearing a martingale or rein stops).
Traces(14) are
adjusted by the breastcollar buckles(15) or by choosing one of the holes
on the end of them. Shaft tips(16) should be at the point of the
shoulder when the horse is in draught. If you find your traces too short
there are trace extenders available, never hook a horse too close.
Often
in the breed ring, the breeching(17) which act as the brakes are left
off of a fine harness appointment. While working on flat ground for
short periods of time this isn’t harmful however if you will be driving
your horse on ground that is not flat you will need to have breeching
on. Generally the braking system consists of breeching and holdback
straps(18). The breeching is a wide strap which connects to the cart by
the holdback straps. When the vehicle pushes forward the brunt of the
force is put on the two straps and thus the breeching seat. The
breastcollar and traces get the vehicle moving forward; the breeching
and holdback straps get it stopped. When the breeching is left off in
the showring, the back saddle and the shaftstops take the brunt of the
force; this is only acceptable on flat ground. The breeching should sit
below the point of the buttocks, this is important as breeching sitting
too high can ride up when slowing down and put a lot of force at the
base of the tail. This kind of force up high may cause a horse to panic
and kick or try to run. Breeching set too low will interfere with the
movement of the hind legs. The breeching is adjusted by the loin strap
billets which fit into either two or four buckles or uptugs on the
breeching. The loinstrap(19) should sit at the highest point of the
croup; there is a slot through the crupper strap(20) to hold it in
place.
The holdback straps are attached to the breeching
through rings at the end of the breeching seat. These holdback straps
attach to the vehicle at the footman loops(21) and wrap around the
shafts. The holdbacks are adjustable by how you wrap around the shafts
and what hole you use on the billet. Ideally you should adjust to have a
clearance of four fingers between the breeching seat and the buttocks
while in draught.
The crupper strap runs from the D
staple on the back of the saddle, down the center of the spine, holding
the loin strap over the high point of the croup and then slits to two
sections. Attached to these two sections is a smooth, tube like loop
called a dock(22). The dock fits under the base of the tail and helps to
hold the crupper strap in place. Many cruppers have two billets where
it splits in two and you can make adjustments at the dock. Use these
buckles first to adjust the loin strap(23), if more adjustment is needed
then move to the adjustment available on the forward part of the
crupper strap. The crupper is there to hold the harness in place but
does not need to be extremely tight and will cause discomfort if it is.
Always keep the dock on your harness clean as it comes in contact with
an extremely sensitive area on your horse and can easily chafe them.
That’s a brief overview of harnessing.
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